Medicinal plants with anti-age potential: a literature review
Keywords:
Cutaneous aging; Natural compounds; Plant extracts. Photo aging; CosmeticsAbstract
In addition to providing essential nutrients for humans, plants contain bioactive compounds that exert various biological activities such as antimicrobial, anticancer, antiviral, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant. The cosmetic industry is interested in natural bioactive compounds for use in nutricosmetic and cosmeceutical products. These products aim, among others, to reduce skin aging, inflammation or provide photoprotection against UV radiation. This review summarizes information from the past 5 years related to bioactive compounds present in fruits, vegetables, herbs and spices commonly used for human consumption. This work aims to describe the benefits of using plants and plant extracts to prevent or improve skin aging. This is an integrative bibliographic review of the literature on the use of medicinal plants with anti aging skin properties, where a survey was carried out between January and November 2020, using an electronic search in the LILACS, SciELO and PubMed databases, keywords were used referring to the anti-aging effect (anti-aging) and medicinal plants (plants). In view of the exposed results, it was observed that the studies were distributed according to the mechanisms presented by plants, such as: induction of collagen synthesis, induction of elastin synthesis, collagenase inhibition, tyrosinase inhibition, elastase inhibition, inhibition of hyaluronidase, inhibition of metallproteinases, induction of hyaluronic acid synthesis, antioxidant effect, anti-inflammatory effect and hydration, moisture, uniformity and wrinkle reduction effects. After analyzing the literature, it was observed that some plants are effective, as a therapeutic alternative for skin aging and even potential substances to be used in new cosmetic products.
Downloads
References
ABBASI, B. et al. Isodon rugosus (Wall. ex Benth.) Codd In Vitro Cultures: Establishment, Phytochemical Characterization and In Vitro Antioxidant and Anti- Aging Activities. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, v. 20, n. 2, p. 452, 21 jan. 2019.
ALVES, Georgia de Assis Dias; SOUZA, Rebeca Oliveira de; ROGEZ, Hervé Louis Ghislain; MASAKI, Hitoshi; FONSECA, Maria José Vieira. Cecropia obtusa extract and chlorogenic acid exhibit anti aging effect in human fibroblasts and keratinocytes cells exposed to UV radiation. Plos One, [S.L.], v. 14, n. 5, p. 21-27, 8 maio 2019. Public Library of Science (PLoS). http://dx.doi.org/10.1371/journal.pone.0216501.
ALVES, A.R.D.S. Envelhecimento da pele: o papel da fitoterapia. 2015. Monografia de Estágio Curricular do Mestrado Integrado em Ciências Farmacêuticas, Faculdade de Farmácia da Universidade de Coimbra, Coimbra, 2015.
ARAMO I. Skin and Hair Diagnosis System. Sungnam: Aram HuvisKorea Ltd., 2012.
ADHIKARI, Deepak; PANTHI, Vijay; PANGENI, Rudra; KIM, Hyun; PARK, Jin. Preparation, Characterization, and Biological Activities of Topical Anti-Aging Ingredients in a Citrus junos Callus Extract. Molecules, [S.L.], v. 22, n. 12, p. 2198- 2213, 11 dez. 2017. MDPI AG. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/molecules22122198.
APRAJ, Vinitad; PANDITA, Nancys. Evaluation of skin anti-aging potential of Citrus reticulata blanco peel. Pharmacognosy Research, [S.L.], v. 8, n. 3, p. 160-168, 2016. Medknow. http://dx.doi.org/10.4103/0974-8490.182913.
ALVES, N. C. Penetração de ativos na pele: revisão bibliográfica. AMAZÔNIA: SCIENCE & HEALTH, 3(4), 36-43. 2015.
ARAÚJO, G. L. B. Cosméticos Infantis (Doctoral dissertation, UNIVERSIDADE DE SÃO PAULO). 2019.
ARELLANO-ACUÑA, E., Rojas-Zavaleta, I., & Paucar-Menacho, L. M. Camu-camu (Myrciaria dubia): Fruta tropical de excelentes propiedades funcionales que ayudan a mejorar la calidad de vida. Scientia Agropecuaria, 7(4), 433-443. 2016.
BOSE, B. et al. Studies on secondary metabolite profiling, anti-inflammatory potential, in vitro photoprotective and skin-aging related enzyme inhibitory activities of Malaxis acuminata, a threatened orchid of nutraceutical importance. Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology B: Biology, v. 173, p. 686–695, ago. 2017.
BAHORUN, T; NEERGHEEN, Vs; ARUOMA, Oi. Phytochemical constituents of Cassia fistula. African Journal of Food, Agriculture, Nutrition and Development, [S.L.], v. 4, n. 13, p. 1530-1540, 9 nov. 2011. African Journals Online (AJOL). http://dx.doi.org/10.4314/ajfand.v4i13.71772.
BAZZICALUPO, M. et al. Polyphenol Characterization and Skin-Preserving Properties of Hydroalcoholic Flower Extract from Himantoglossum robertianum (Orchidaceae). Plants, v. 8, n. 11, p. 502, 14 nov. 2019.
COSTA, A.P.O. Fitoterapia: o elixir da juventude da pele. 2019. Monografia de Estágio do Mestrado Integrado em Ciências Farmacêuticas apresentado à Faculdade de Farmácia, Faculdade de Farmácia da Universidade de Coimbra, Coimbra, 2019.
CAVINATO, M. et al. Plant extracts and natural compounds used against UVB-induced photoaging. Biogerontology, v. 18, n. 4, p. 499–516, 12 jul. 2017.
CUNHA, E. C. E. Evaluation and characterization of the bioactive compounds of camu- camu (Myrciaria dubia (HBK) Mc Vaugh): Avaliação e caracterização dos compostos bioativos do camu-camu (Myrciaria dubia (HBK) Mc Vaugh). 2018.
DEFENG, D. et al. Regulation by walnut protein hydrolysate on the components and structural degradation of photoaged skin in SD rats. Food & Function, v. 10, n. 10, p. 6792–6802, 2019.
DAMASCENO, Gabriel A.B.; BARRETO, Stella M.A.G.; REGINALDO, Fernanda P.s.; SOUTO, Augusto L.; NEGREIROS, Marília M.F.; VIANA, Rony L.s.; PINTO, Talita K.B.; DAHER, Cláudia C.; SILVA-FILHO, Jean A.A.; MOURA, Rafael A.O. Prosopis juliflora as a new cosmetic ingredient: development and clinical evaluation of a bioactive moisturizing and anti-aging innovative solid core. Carbohydrate Polymers, [S.L.], v. 233, p. 115854-115861, abr. 2020. Elsevier BV. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.carbpol.2020.115854.
DAMLE, M.; MALLYA, R. Development and Evaluation of a Novel Delivery System Containing Phytophospholipid Complex for Skin Aging. AAPS PharmSciTech, v. 17, n. 3, p. 607–617, 20 ago. 2015.
FREITAS, C. A., Muller, R. C., Nascimento, W. M., Lima, M. D. O., Faial, K. D. C. F., & Lopes, A. S. Análise Multivariada da composição mineral de frutos de Camu- camu (Myrciaria dubia). 2019.
FERNANDES, E. Análise sensorial de formulações cosméticas e dermatológicas: desenvolvimento e validação de metodologia. 2019.
GUN-HE, M.S. et al. Solvent fractions of fermented Trapa japonica fruit extract stimulate collagen synthesis through TGF??1/GSK?3?/??catenin pathway in human dermal fibroblasts. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, v. 19, n. 1, p. 226– 233, jan. 2020.
HAIYUAN, Y. et al. The protective effects of ?-sitosterol and vermicularin from Thamnolia vermicularis (Sw.) Ach. Against skin aging in vitro. Anais da Academia Brasileira de Ciências, v. 91, n. 4, 2019.
HWANG, E. et al. Antiaging effects of the mixture of Panax ginseng and Crataegus pinnatifida in human dermal fibroblasts and healthy human skin. Journal of Ginseng Research, v. 41, n. 1, p. 69–77, jan. 2017.
HWANG, E. et al. Protective effect of dietary Alchemilla mollis on UVB-irradiated premature skin aging through regulation of transcription factor NFATc1 and Nrf2/ARE pathways. Phytomedicine, v. 39, p. 125–136, jan. 2018.
HUSSIN et al. NMR-Based Metabolomics Profiling for Radical Scavenging and Anti- Aging Properties of Selected Herbs. Molecules, v. 24, n. 17, p. 3208, 3 set. 2019.
HENTZ, V. S. Proposta de tratamento físico-químico de efluentes líquidos de uma indústria de cosmético. Química Bacharelado-Tubarão.2018.
NGO, H. T. T. et al. Topical application of neem leaves prevents wrinkles formation in UVB-exposed hairless mice. Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology B: Biology, v. 169, p. 161–170, abr. 2017.
IWAMOTO, R., Doval, J., de Amorim, T. C., de Paula, A. C. V., Correia Gomes, J. P., & Pedriali Moraes, C. A. Neurocosméticos: a cosmetologia a favor do bem-estar na terceira idade. InterfacEHS, 11(2). 2016.
IM, A-Rang; KIM, Young-Mi; CHIN, Young-Won; CHAE, Sungwook. Protective effects of compounds from Garcinia mangostana L. (mangosteen) against UVB damage in HaCaT cells and hairless mice. International Journal of Molecular Medicine, [S.L.],
p. 1941-1949, 13 out. 2017. Spandidos Publications. http://dx.doi.org/10.3892/ijmm.2017.3188.
JDEY, M. et al. Anti-aging activities of extracts from Tunisian medicinal halophytes and their aromatic constituents. EXCLI journal, v. 16, 2017.
JESUS, T. E. D., & Bitencourt, C. E. B. Um estudo dos ativos vegetais presentes em formulações tópicas para área dos olhos disponíveis no mercado brasileiro. Tecnologia em Cosmetologia e Estética-Tubarão. 2019.
KHAN, Barkat Ali; AKHTAR, Naveed; HUSSAIN, Irshad; ABBAS, Khwaja Asad; RASUL, Akhtar. Whitening efficacy of plant extracts including Hippophae rhamnoides and Cassia fistula extracts on the skin of Asian patients with melasma. Advances in Dermatology and Allergology, [S.L.], v. 4, p. 226-232, 2013. Termedia Sp. z.o.o. http://dx.doi.org/10.5114/pdia.2013.37032.
KIM, M. et al. Protective effects of Camellia japonica flower extract against urban air pollutants. BMC Complementary and Alternative Medicine, v. 19, n. 1, 28 jan. 2019.
KALYANA SUNDARAM, I. et al. Poly herbal formulation with anti-elastase and anti- oxidant properties for skin anti-aging. BMC Complementary and Alternative Medicine, v. 18, n. 1, 29 jan. 2018.
KIM, J. et al. Beneficial effects on skin health using polysaccharides from red ginseng by?product. Journal of Food Biochemistry, v. 43, n. 8, 30 jun. 2019.
KUSUMAWATI, Idha; KURNIAWAN, Kresma Oky; RULLYANSYAH, Subhan; PRIJO, Tri Anggono; WIDYOWATI, Retno; EKOWATI, Juni; HESTIANAH, Eka Pramyrtha; MAAT, Suprapto; MATSUNAMI, Katsuyoshi. Anti-aging properties of Curcuma heyneana Valeton & Zipj: a scientific approach to its use in javanese tradition. Journal Of Ethnopharmacology, [S.L.], v. 225, p. 64-70, out. 2018. Elsevier BV. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jep.2018.06.038.
KWON, K.-R. et al. Attenuation of UVB-Induced Photo-Aging by Polyphenolic-Rich Spatholobus Suberectus Stem Extract Via Modulation of MAPK/AP-1/MMPs Signaling in Human Keratinocytes. Nutrients, v. 11, n. 6, p. 1341, 14 jun. 2019.
KHARE, R.; UPMANYU, N.; JHA, M. Exploring the potential effect of Methanolic extract of Salvia officinalis against UV exposed skin aging: In vivo and In vitro model. Current Aging Science, v. 12, 8 ago. 2019.
KANLAYAVATTANAKUL, Mayuree; OSPONDPANT, Dusadee; RUKTANONCHAI,
Uracha; LOURITH, Nattaya. Biological activity assessment and phenolic compounds characterization from the fruit pericarp ofLitchi chinensisfor cosmetic applications. Pharmaceutical Biology, [S.L.], v. 50, n. 11, p. 1384-1390, 11 set. 2012. Informa UK Limited. http://dx.doi.org/10.3109/13880209.2012.675342.
LOURITH, Nattaya; KANLAYAVATTANAKUL, Mayuree; CHAIKUL, Puxvadee; CHANSRINIYOM, Chaisak; BUNWATCHARAPHANSAKUN, Pichaporn. In vitro and cellular activities of the selected fruits residues for skin aging treatment. Anais da Academia Brasileira de Ciências, [S.L.], v. 89, n. 1, p. 577-589, 22 maio 2017. FapUNIFESP (SciELO). http://dx.doi.org/10.1590/0001-3765201720160849.
LETSIOU, S.; KAPAZOGLOU, A.; TSAFTARIS, A. Transcriptional and epigenetic effects of Vitis vinifera L. leaf extract on UV-stressed human dermal fibroblasts. Molecular Biology Reports, v. 47, n. 8, p. 5763–5772, 14 jul. 2020.
LI, J. et al. Reversing UVB?induced photoaging with Hibiscus sabdariffa calyx aqueous extract. Journal of the Science of Food and Agriculture, v. 100, n. 2, p. 672–681, 15 nov. 2019.
LIMTRAKUL, Pornngarm; YODKEEREE, Supachai; THIPPRAPHAN, Pilaiporn; PUNFA, Wanisa; SRISOMBOON, Jatupol. Anti-aging and tyrosinase inhibition effects of Cassia fistula flower butanolic extract. Bmc Complementary and Alternative Medicine, [S.L.], v. 16, n. 1, p. 1484-1487, dez. 2016. Springer Science and Business Media LLC. http://dx.doi.org/10.1186/s12906-016-1484-3.
MA, Rui-Jing; YANG, Liu; BAI, Xue; LI, Jin-Yu; YUAN, Ming-Yan; WANG, Ya-Qin; XIE, Yong; HU, Jiang-Miao; ZHOU, Jun. Phenolic Constituents with Antioxidative, Tyrosinase Inhibitory and Anti-aging Activities from Dendrobium loddigesii Rolfe. Natural Products and Bioprospecting, [S.L.], v. 9, n. 5, p. 329-336, out. 2019. Springer Science and Business Media LLC. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/s13659-019- 00219-y.
MARUKI-UCHIDA, H. et al. Effect of Passion Fruit Seed Extract Rich in Piceatannol on the Skin of Women: A Randomized, Placebo-Controlled, Double-Blind Trial. Journal of Nutritional Science and Vitaminology, v. 64, n. 1, p. 75–80, 2018.
MASHORCA, K. S., Spers, E. E., de Proença Vetucci, J., & Da Silva, H. M. R. A beleza e a vaidade em relação a novos tipos de alimentos: um estudo sobre o mercado de nutricosméticos. Revista Brasileira de Marketing, 15(3), 401-417. 2016.
MARINO, C. J. M. Desenvolvimento e controle de qualidade de formulações emulsionadas contendo óleo de castanha-do-brasil (Bertholletia excelsa HBK). 2018.
MACHADO, M. T. G. H. Análise da distribuição de temperatura e do dano térmico causado na pele humana em consequência de queimaduras. 2018.
SATURNO, J. D. S., & MARTINS, S. F. Estudo comparativo das etnias italiana e negra de acordo com o fototipo cutâneo e os cuidados com a pele. Tecnologia em Cosmetologia e Estética-Tubarão. 2019.
OLIVEIRA, Â. Z. M. D. Desenvolvimento de formulações cosméticas com ácido hialurónico. 2011.
OLIVEIRA, P. A. N., de Souza Silva, A., de Queiroz Silva, L., Chaves, I. F. G. M., & Pessoa, C. V. ENVELHECIMENTO CUTÂNEO E O TRATAMENTO COM NEUROCOSMÉTICOS. Mostra Científica da Farmácia, 4(1). 2018.
PRASETYO, Bayu Eko; RAFIKA, Dwi; LAILA, Lia; AMINAH, Fat. Physical Evaluation and Anti-Aging Effect of Red Bean Ethanolic Extract (Vigna angularis (Wild.) Ohwi & Ohashi) Peel-Off Gel Mask. Open Access Macedonian Journal Of Medical Sciences, [S.L.], v. 7, n. 22, p. 3907-3910, 14 nov. 2019. ID Design 2012/DOOEL Skopje. http://dx.doi.org/10.3889/oamjms.2019.531.
PALUNGWACHIRA, Pakhawadee; TANCHAROEN, Salunya; PHRUKSANIYOM, Chareerut; KLUNGSAENG, Sirinapha; SRICHAN, Ratchaporn; KIKUCHI, Kiyoshi; NARARATWANCHAI, Thamthiwat. Antioxidant and Anti-Inflammatory Properties of Anthocyanins Extracted from Oryza sativa L. in Primary Dermal Fibroblasts. Oxidative Medicine and Cellular Longevity, [S.L.], v. 2019, p. 1-18, 31 jul. 2019. Hindawi Limited. http://dx.doi.org/10.1155/2019/2089817.
PARK, Jisoo; HONG, Youngeun; KWON, So Hee; PARK, Jongsun; LEE, Hyunji. Anti- aging effects of Piper cambodianum P. Fourn. extract on normal human dermal fibroblast cells and a wound-healing model in mice. Clinical Interventions In Aging, [S.L.], v. 11, p. 1017-1026, jul. 2016. Informa UK Limited. http://dx.doi.org/10.2147/cia.s107734.
PEREIRA, J.C., Neves, M. C., Ferreira, M. R. D. S., Martinez, V. D. S., De Freitas, T. C. C., & Talhati, F. ENVELHECIMENTO CUTÂNEO E OS CUIDADOS ESTÉTICOS NA PELE MASCULINA. Revista Pesquisa e Ação, 5(1), 26-34. 2019.
PIENTAWEERATCH, S.; PANAPISAL, V.; TANSIRIKONGKOL, A. Antioxidant, anti- collagenase and anti-elastase activities of Phyllanthus emblica, Manilkara zapota and silymarin: an in vitro comparative study for anti-aging applications. Pharmaceutical Biology, v. 54, n. 9, p. 1865–1872, 24 fev. 2016.
PRATES, M., & Andrade, M. Estudo do efeito do ácido hialurônico: uso como reenchedor de rugas no envelhecimento facial, 2017.
SHIRATA, M. M. F., & Campos, P. M. B. G. M. Importância do perfil de ttextura e sensorial no desenvolvimento de formulações cosméticas. Surgical t& Cosmetic Dermatology, 8(3), 223-230. 2016.
SILVA, M. T. Caderno didático de Cosmetologia (Pronatec/Goiás). Cadernos Pronatec Goiás, 1(1), 701-769. 2018.
SILVA, N. C. S., DE MORAES, A. L. S., MARTINS, D. A., ANDRADE, L. M., & PEREIRA, R. S. F. COSMETOLOGIA: ORIGEM, EVOLUÇÃO E TENDÊNCIAS. ÚNICA Cadernos Acadêmicos, 2(1). 2019.
SILVA, U. AÇÃO DOS ATIVOS NA PERMEABILIDADE CUTÂNEA. Revista UNIPLAC, 6(1). 2018.
SHOKO, T. et al. Anti-aging potential of extracts from Sclerocarya birrea (A. Rich.) Hochst and its chemical profiling by UPLC-Q-TOF-MS. BMC Complementary and Alternative Medicine, v. 18, n. 1, 7 fev. 2018.
SILVA, N. C. S., DE MORAES, A. L. S., MARTINS, D. A., ANDRADE, L. M., & PEREIRA, R. S. F. Cosmetologia: origem, evolução e tendências. ÚNICA Cadernos Acadêmicos, 2(1). 2019.
SILVA, N. C. S., DA SILVA, J. N., TEIXEIRA, R. T. B. B., RAMOS, S. H. S., DOS SANTOS, V. L., SALIBA, W. A., & COELHO, C. P. Estudo de estabilidade de um creme dermatológico vegetal rejuvenescedor facial desenvolvido com extrato de hibiscus sabdariffa. ÚNICA Cadernos Acadêmicos, 2(1). 2019.
SANTOS, M. L. D. S. D., & Santos, C. H. G. D. Desinfestação de sementes de myrciaria dubia (kunth) mcvaugh para obtenção de protocolo de estabelecimento in vitro. Revista Multidisciplinar Pey Këyo Científico-ISSN 2525-8508, 5(1), 39-54. 2019.
STADNICK, T. D. Estudos dos ativos cosméticos vegetais de uso profissional utilizados no envelhecimento facial. Tecnologia em Cosmetologia e Estética- Tubarão. 2019.
STIERLIN, Emilie; AZOULAY, Stéphane; MASSI, Lionel; FERNANDEZ, Xavier; MICHEL, Thomas. Cosmetic potentials of Prunus domestica L. leaves. Journal of the Science of Food and Agriculture, [S.L.], v. 98, n. 2, p. 726-736, 28 ago. 2017. Wiley. http://dx.doi.org/10.1002/jsfa.8520.
SHEN, Tao; DUAN, Chao; CHEN, Beidong; LI, Meng; RUAN, Yang; XU, Danni; SHI, Doudou; YU, Dan; LI, Jian; WANG, Changtao. Tremella fuciformis polysaccharide suppresses hydrogen peroxide-triggered injury of human skin fibroblasts via upregulation of SIRT1. Molecular Medicine Reports, [S.L.], v. 16, n. 2, p. 1340-1346, fev. 2017. Spandidos Publications. http://dx.doi.org/10.3892/mmr.2017.6754.
TAN. H.; SONAM, T.; SHIMIZU K. The Potential of Triterpenoids from Loquat Leaves (Eriobotrya japonica) for Prevention and Treatment of Skin Disorder. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, v. 18, n. 5, p. 1030, 2017. Disponível em: <https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/28492484/>. Acesso em: 8 Nov. 2020.
UCHIYAMA, Taro; TSUNENAGA, Makoto; MIYANAGA, Miho; UEDA, Osamu; OGO, Masashi. Oral intake of lingonberry and amla fruit extract improves skin conditions in healthy female subjects: a randomized, double?blind, placebo?controlled clinical trial. Biotechnology and Applied Biochemistry, [S.L.], v. 66, n. 5, p. 870-879, 16 ago. 2019. Wiley. http://dx.doi.org/10.1002/bab.1800.
WEIHERMANN, A. C.; LORENCINI, M.; BROHEM, C. A.; CARVALHO, C. M. de.
Elastin structure and its involvement in skin photoaging. International Journal Of Cosmetic Science, [S.L.], v. 39, n. 3, p. 241-247, 11 nov. 2016. Wiley. http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12372.
WINTHER, Kaj; WONGSUPHASAWAT, Karnt; PHETCHARAT, Lalida. The effectiveness of a standardized rose hip powder, containing seeds and shells of Rosa canina, on cell longevity, skin wrinkles, moisture, and elasticity. Clinical Interventions in Aging, [S.L.], p. 1849-1857, nov. 2015. Informa UK Limited. http://dx.doi.org/10.2147/cia.s90092.
YANG, J.-E. et al. Dietary enzyme-treated Hibiscus syriacus L. protects skin against chronic UVB-induced photoaging via enhancement of skin hydration and collagen synthesis. Archives of Biochemistry and Biophysics, v. 662, p. 190–200, fev. 2019.
ZAMARRÓN, Alicia; LORRIO, Silvia; GONZÁLEZ, Salvador; JUARRANZ, Ángeles. Fernblock Prevents Dermal Cell Damage Induced by Visible and Infrared A Radiation. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, [S.L.], v. 19, n. 8, p. 2250-2265, 1 ago. 2018. MDPI AG. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/ijms19082250.
ZILLICH, O.V.; SCHWEIGGERT-WEISZ, U.; EISNER, P.; KERSCHER, M. -
Polyphenols as active ingredients for cosmetic products. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2015.
Português (Brasil)
English
Español (España)